Gayle's Blog

It's everywhere, that shiny brass!  You see it on doorknobs, light fixtures, cabinet pulls, faucets and more.  When I do staging consults, recommending that people update their fixtures and doorknobs is one of my key points.  Nothing says, "lowball me" or "this house hasn't been updated" like a pitted, tarnished, shiny (or not so shiny anymore) brass front door knob.  

Now of course, it can depend on the price point of the home, but in my area (and I'm guessing this is true in others as well), the houses that are selling are either way underpriced/foreclosure types, or the ones that are updated and really well maintained. Shiny brass tends to be installed by builders because it is cheap, not because it is the most attractive.  Today, you can get satin nickel or bronze for about the same price, and the impact it makes on potential buyers is substantial.

Replacing the shiny brass with satin/brushed nickel or oil rubbed bronze is one of the best ways to show that a home has been updated for several reasons.

• it's one of the first things a potential buyer touches when they enter a home
• it's a highly visible feature of the home whether the shiny brass is on a faucet, light fixture or doorknob
• nickel or bronze presents a more 'expensive' look to the buyer

Updating a whole house can be pricey, especially if it is a larger home.  But here are some cost saving tips:

• start with the exterior doors - if you can only afford one door knob - make it the front door, then move to other exterior doors, then interior
• consider painting the hinges the door color instead of replacing them - it's better to replace but if you can't swing it - paint them - the buyer won't really notice and it's not something that is that unusual, especially in older homes
• I often recommend, for cost purposes, doing the first floor of a home and not worrying so much about other floors although doing all is ideal
• use discount stores or clearance items wherever possible (I recommend Everything Doors - they are local for me but have a great online inventory)
• if you can only do one faucet - do the kitchen faucet, then move to first floor & bathrooms (do the master bath & first floor powder/guest bath first), then other floors
• your faucets do not have to all be the same style unless they are in the same bathroom - look for clearance or scratch & dent - as long as they work and are in good condition - go for it
• light fixtures can often be painted black or bronze using spray paint
• for light fixtures - start with the front door exterior lights, then the foyer, followed by the kitchen & dining areas, and then moving on to hallways, bathrooms and bedrooms although the master bedroom should be the first of the bedrooms for updating fixtures
• don't forget about ceiling fans - look for clearance fans in dark brown or bronze with dark wood blades
  

Tip: Once you pick a finish for door knobs (nickel or bronze or pewter), stick with it.  If you do the front door in satin nickel, make all of the doorknobs satin nickel.  I usually recommend brushed nickel for all faucets.  Mixing light fixtures is fine - I usually recommend black or dark bronze colors for those but if you have a more contemporary home, nickel or chrome can work as well. 

The key is to keep updates consistent in viewable areas.  For example, if you update the exterior front entry (which should always be the place to start), be sure to do the door knob, door bell, light fixtures, etc.) so that you won't have one really nice piece and a shabby one.  It sends mixed messages, not the "aaah, I like this" message you want.  If you update the kitchen with a new faucet and cabinet pulls, make sure the light fixtures and knobs visible from the kitchen are also updated in some way.

 

Beware:  I've heard of some stagers painting faucets or door knobs.  I do NOT recommend this.  A light fixture is usually fine as long is it is prepped well, but faucets and door handles are touched and cleaned frequently.  No paint, adhered to a metal is going to withstand this and then it will start to peel, chip or wear.  I consider this misrepresentation to the buyer - guaranteed to piss them off.  It would me.

A consideration is plating if the condition and quality are great (see my post about plating).  This can be cost effective, especially if the knob or fixture is amazing and would be really expensive to duplicate via replacement.

Here's the most important tip:

It doesn't necessarly have to be your taste or the 'perfect' faucet, light fixture or door knob.  The key is the do the upgrade at the most economical price point possible. 

While you don't really want to spend a lot of money when you are selling your house, after paint, flooring & maintenance repairs, updating from shiny brass is one of  the best investments you can make.

One caveat: if your home is 'vintage' or historic - this is where you can go a little funky with light fixtures.  If you have vintage cabinet pulls, super cool contemporary  light fixtures or really interesting touches - these can often be good selling features.  You just have to make sure that they are done purposefully. and to the style of the home.  As Tim Gunn on Project Runway says, "Make It Work"!  Nothing is sadder than seeing a really cool, old house "updated" with shiny brass.

I just spent an hour on hold with the Internal Revenue Service to gain clarity on something and here is what I found out:

Q:  I'm already a homeowner. If I buy another home after Nov. 6, 2009, to use as my principal residence, do I have to sell my home to qualify for the homebuyer tax credit?

A: No. If you meet all of the requirements for the credit, the law does not require you to sell or otherwise dispose of your current principal residence to qualify for a credit of up to $6,500 when you buy a replacement home to use as your principal residence. The requirements are that you must buy, or enter into a binding contract to buy, the replacement principal residence after Nov. 6, 2009, and on or before April 30, 2010, and close on the home by June 30, 2010. Additionally, you must have lived in the same principal residence for any five-consecutive-year period during the eight-year period that ended on the date the replacement home is purchased. For example, if you bought a home on Nov. 30, 2009, the eight-year period would run from Dec. 1, 2001, through Nov. 30, 2009. (11/17/09)

Learn more about the $6,500 tax-credit straight from the IRS website: CLICK HERE

This is a great opportunity for those homeowners that otherwise qualify for this credit but want to keep their currnet personal residence as a rental property or a vacation home. The key is in bold above: You just need to buy a replacement personal residnece!

The IRS is updating information about this tax-credit often. It appears from the footnote on the link provided above that the IRS webpage was updated today. With that said, we urge you to consult with your lender and/or tax professional and/or the IRS directly if you have a spcific circumstance or question about the $6,500 tax-credit.

Robert Wiebusch ~ NP Dodge Blog Author

Dear Consumer,

I understand your frustration, disappointment & even your anger about Realtors. You have been let down, lied to, and in some cases stolen from. And I do not feel sorry for most of you.

Let me share this story with you:

I had a computer that was constantly losing memory. It is now with it's 3rd technician. Like you, I know very little about "the industry." In fact, I know nothing about computers except what I've read online. Once in awhile a friend or relative will try to give me advice, but the result is always the same, more frustration. The first COMPUTER TECHNICIAN charged me $250.00 to fix my problem. He told me I had a leaky motherboard and to "throw it away." Unconvinced I took the computer to Best Buy ($150.00) where they simply said they needed to reconfigure my cpu and "wipe it." This would basically delete everything on the hard drive and restore it to day one. Guess what? That didn't work either!!

On the third attempt I dropped it off to yet another technician, referred by fellow Realtor. I was so angry with the entire process that I was determined to get to the source of the problem, no matter the cost..... Finally I was told I had a VIRUS in my BIOS system, whatever the hell that means. My situation was now solved.

I very easily could have said... "all computer technicians are stupid liars looking to STEAL from me," but I did not. To be honest, I'm very, very angry about my experiences, but.... 

---->I have one person to blame for my misery, myself.<-----

I rushed, trusted and didn't do my research when looking for the RIGHT guy to fix my computer. I was stupid, careless and too trustworthy. When I was growing up my parents always warned me to SHOP wisely. They reminded me that only fools make quick impulsive decisions with their money. And they were right.

Now that I've found my trusted computer technician I feel redeemed. If I ever need a computer repair, I'll know who to call. I'll refer him over and over again & even though I'm angry with my past experiences I harbor no ill will towards the industry. I would NEVER consider trying to nickle & dime him as I now know he's worth the money he was paid. I won't rely on my uncle in Nebraska who worked on computers in the 80's as he's "just trying to help."

The moral of the story is simple.

Ask lots and lots of questions before you hire a Realtor. Don't just sign paperwork assuming we are all bred, raised and educated the same. The 80/20 rule applies to our industry as well. I believe you get what you pay for in Real Estate. If you don't do your research than you are asking for potential problems. Learn from other peoples horror stories and not your own.